SIRIUSJOE'S MARAUDER VZ800 OIL CHANGE TUTORIAL

( If I can do it, so can you! )

I'm a computer software geek by trade, and I have virtually no mechanical skills at all. When I got back into riding last year, one of my goals was to learn how to do basic maintenance and repairs by myself. Changing the oil and filter seemed like the logical place to start, and I thought that maybe some other people could benefit from my effort if I took some pictures and wrote up a little how-to guide. So here it is, and I hope you find it helpful.

Things you will need:

1: Motorcycle Oil - There are many sources of information about suitable oil for motorcycles on the web so I won't go into that here. I'm using Shell Rotella T synthetic 5W-40 in the blue jug. You'll need about 2.2 quarts, so either get a gallon jug or 3 of the quart bottles.

2: Oil Filter Wrench - I got this one at Walmart for about $6. You can also use a standard strap wrench, but this one works perfectly and it's very cheap.

3: Oil Filter - I'm using a genuine Suzuki filter that I bought from the local dealership, but there may be other brands available wherever you buy the oil.

4: Funnel - Prevents spilling oil on the engine while refilling.

5: Ratchet Wrench - 3/8" drive with short extension and 14mm socket.

6: Oil Pan and Rags - Make sure the oil pan fits easily under the bike while the bike is on the sidestand.

Here's a close view of the oil filter wrench. It's an Imperial model IF-6567C. Very cheap and very effective. It has a 3/8" square drive hole for use with a standard ratchet wrench. I found this at Walmart.

The oil filler cap is on the right side of the engine, just behind the rear cylinder. It's close to the exhaust pipe, so be careful if the engine is hot.

Unscrew the oil filler cap and set it aside. If there's any dirt around the filler hole, carefully wipe it off with a rag.

The filler cap is off. This is where you'll refill the oil later.

Underneath the engine, you'll find the oil drain plug. It's the large hex head bolt.

Loosen the drain plug with the 14mm socket. Once the bolt has broken free, take the wrench off and slide the oil pan under the bike. Then continue to unscrew the drain plug with your fingers. The plug is about 3/4" long so it takes a while to get it out. You'll probably get some oil on your hands at this point, but that's what the rags are for. ;) Set the drain plug aside.

The oil will drain out quickly at first.

After a minute or two, it will slow to a thin drip and stay this way for several minutes. If you straighten the bike up and rock it from side to side a bit, you'll get a few more gushes of oil to come out. Let this continue draining until it stops. Take a break, have a smoke or a drink or whatever.

Take the 14mm socket off the ratchet wrench and snap on the oil filter wrench. Just stick the extension into the drive hole.

The oil filter wrench is ready to go.

Here's the oil filter. Looks like a complete nightmare, doesn't it?

But if you look under the bottom edge of the radiator, you find that it's actually quite easy to get at the filter. The little gizmo to the right of the filter is the oil pressure sensor. Be careful not to damage it while you're working in this area, especially if you are using a strap wrench.

Stick the filter wrench through the opening under the radiator and slide it onto the end of the oil filter.

Loosen the filter with the wrench. Oil will spill out, so make sure the oil pan is underneath the filter. Once the filter has broken free, remove the wrench from the filter.

Then stick your hand in there and continue unscrewing the filter.

Oil will continue to drain out for a few minutes. When it stops, wipe up any dirt and gunk with a rag.

Here's the old filter. Yuck!

The new filter will have instructions printed on it, or maybe on the box. This one says to apply oil to the gasket before installation, and to tighten 2 turns. Your filter may be different, and it may not agree with the official Suzuki service manual. Always follow the filter instructions, DO NOT follow the service manual.

The gasket is the black rubber donut around the outer edge of the filter. Smear some oil on the gasket. You don't need a lot, just enough to make it "wet".

Screw the new filter on . As soon as the rubber gasket touches the engine, STOP! Do not tighten it any farther by hand.

Put the filter wrench back on, and tighten the filter according to the filter instructions. For this filter, it was 2 full turns. Yours may be different. When you're done, remove the wrench and clean up the area with a rag.

The new filter is installed.

Switch back to the 14mm socket, and reinstall the drain plug.

Put the funnel into the oil filler hole.

This is the oil level sight glass. The metal ring around the glass has marks to show the high and low limits of the oil level. You want the oil to be between the marks, or roughly halfway up the glass. We haven't yet refilled the oil, so this is what the glass looks like when it's empty.

STAND THE BIKE UPRIGHT and begin pouring the new oil into the funnel slowly. Watch the sight glass and stop when you get the oil up to the normal level, about halfway up the glass. This will take approximately 2 quarts. Maybe a little more, maybe a little less. You may want to get a helper to hold the bike upright while you work.

Remove the funnel and replace the oil filler cap. Start the engine and let it idle for a minute or two. Check underneath the bike for any leaks. Then shut the engine off and wait another minute or two. STAND THE BIKE UPRIGHT and check the oil level in the sight glass again. If the level is below the normal range, add more oil until the level is halfway up the glass. The Suzuki service manual says it will take 2.2 quarts if you change both the oil and the filter, and that's exactly what my bike used.

Congratulations, you have just saved yourself a bunch of money and a trip to the service shop!