Marauder FAQ 1. If you want to use K&N air filters(you need two) you must rejet the carbs. K&N dropin part number is SU-5589, you need two. 2. If you just pull out the baffels or go to mild exhaust pipes adjust the Mixture screws. Start at 2 1/2 turn out(CCW) from lightly seated. 3. Choke knob does't say out . There's a adjustment behind the knob to tighten it. 4. Front pilot - VM28/486 rear pilot - N151.067 main jets - N100/604 5. Barnett springs for your clutch, part number is MT-59-4 PU-SK-329 for Vesrah springs at cruisercustomizing.com 6. 17t sprocket part number at Sprocket Spec is 514-17. 16t is 514-16. Available here: http://www.sprocketspecialists.com 7. Chain size is 530 with 116 links 8. Ign switch key blank is a ILCO X179 Fork lock key blank is ILCO V06. 9. Marauder manual and parts breakdown here: http://www.axel.dreamhosters.com/Marauder/ 10. Lawrence's Stage info for the Marauder. Ok. Here's the scoop about "Stages" for all you newbies. Stage I Just a "jet" kit from Factory Pro or Cobra/Dynojet. The Cobra/Dynojet kits do not actually contain jets, just richer carb needles. Use stock filters and airboxes. Use stock jets. About $65.00 to $80.00 If using an aftermarket exhaust, this Stage I is highly recommended. You might get an extra hp or two. Stage II Use the above but this time use with drop-in K&N (SU-5589) air filters (still using stock airboxes). But now the bike will not run unless you up the main jet size considerably, depending on your exhaust set-up. K&Ns are about 30 bucks each. Performance goes up considerably. Stage III Use Stage I jet kit but scrap the stock airboxes completely and use clamp-on filters. The main jets sizes will go up again, size depending on what filters you use. Use next size pilots as well. RA-0470 rear RU-0680 front Reamed out stock exhaust will work fine. Just use slightly smaller main jets. A stock Marauder was designed to meet strict emission standards. So the wizards at Suzuki designed the air filters with a VERY restrictive intake. Look at them! The intake is only about 1 1/8" diameter. The K&Ns are almost 2". HUGE increase in airflow thus a good 15% increase in HP. Using clamp-ons and that number goes up even more. Stock hp is about 43 peak hp at the wheel At Stage III, properly tuned, you can get in the low 50s. Doesn't sound like much but this cruiser is only about 450 lbs, relatively light for a cruiser thus hp/weight ratio is good for a V-twin cruiser. 11. Thought I would post this story as it may assist some one else. BACKGROUND I purchased a 1997 VZ800 Rauder for $500 Aust ($375US) which was cosmetically excellent but had a bad rattle in the motor. Stripped the motor down and found a badly worn crankshaft and the bearings had been turning in the conrod. Suzuki like most bike manufacturers do not make bearings with a big enough variance to allow you to re grind the crank and fit undersize bearings. I priced a new crank,new rods and bearings which were $1720Aust--- one Aust $ is currently about 75 centsUS THE SOLUTION I took the crank and rods to Repco (engine rebuilders) and got them to grind the crank to 40 thou undersize to remove all the score marks The rauder crank is a nitrided (dip hardened) crank so I then sent it to Brisbane and had it re-nitrided Sourced some 40 thou undersize Triumph car bearings--- Note that the size of the bearings is dependent upon how much you need to grind from the crank but there is a myriad of different size car bearings on the market so they are easy to source also it does not matter which side the anti spin tag is located on the bearings as it is a simple process to machine another into the conrod bigend. Then had a small amount taken off the bottom bearing cup to make the rod bigend an oval shape and then re-bored it back round again to remove the damage done by the original turning bearings Cut new anti spin tag locaters and fitted the new bearings. Cost of all of this was $400Aust compared to$1720 and the bottom end is like new As I am not aware of the bikes history and do not know what caused such a mess in the bottom end I am also replacing the oil pump as a pre-caution. Hope no other mig has to go thru this but now we know it can be done. If anyone has problems with my Aust terminology for parts etc please ask and we will see if we can translate it to US speak. Buffalo 12. More Stage info from Lawrence The Stage II mod is when the stock air filters are replaced with K&N filters. (drop-in replacement type, SU-5589) Due to emission requirements the designers at Suzuki restricted the air flow in the stock intakes and filters quite severly. So, when the K&Ns are used the potentail for more air is so increased that the bike will barely run without making big changes in the carb jetting. Typically the stock main jets (sizes 90 and 100, front and rear respectively) are upped to sizes 125 and 135, give or take depending on the pipes used. If free flowing drags are used then maybe use a bit larger jets. A "jet kit" is also needed. This kit includes richer carb needles. The needles slide up and down in the carb throat depending on throttle position and control the fuel flow during mid-range operation. Contact Spacer Jim for the kits. Expect about 6 hp increase. That is a VERY noticable gain, especially on a 49 cu in motor. Now, the Stage III takes all this one step further. The drop-in replacement filters are NOT used. What we do is scrap the entire stock air boxes and filters and use clamp-on K&N filters directly on the carb intake manifolds. The ones we use are MUCH larger than those drop-ins and the air flow potential is increased even more. Use RA-0470 for the rear and RU-0680 for the front. Jet sizes go up again to about 145 and 155, again depending on the pipes. Expect about another 3 hp. 13. Marauder front wheel bearings info. P/n 6203 2RS size 17 X 40 X 12 id,od,width available here: http://www.bossbearing.com/z.asp?ID=151 14. The stem is not a constant diameter. But this should help some: Steering head bearings upper bearing inside diameter = 25mm outside diameter = 47mm lower bearing inside diameter = 30mm outside diameter = 55mm 15. Forward controls info The Mapams move your feet forward about 3 inches by themselves, another 3" with my extensions. If you can pick up a set of Mapams cheap that may be the way to go. Rizomas move your feet forward ~5 inches. Jardines move your feet forward the most ~6 inches but they are the most expensive. Another thing, if your planning on putting a Mustang seat on it will move you forward about 1.5 inches. 16. If you run steel needles in your carbs they wear out the jet needles. 09494-00902 for the rear and 09494-00901 for the front at Ron Ayers. 17. From Tom "Wheels" If it's a diaphragm pin hole, this will work. I created it a couple years ago. Remove the affected slide, and thoroughly clean the diaphragm with mild dish soap, warm water, a cotton ball or Q-tip, to remove any dirt, residue, etc, for good adhesion when applying the fix. Air dry with low air pressure or hair dryer. Using one of the latex surgical gloves, (Note: these will have been coated with powder to make them easier to put on your hands. So you will need to wash them as you did the diaphragm to remove the powder) cut a small round patch out of the glove. I made mine 1/2" diameter. Using the clear silicone and the artists brush, paint a thin even coat of silicone over and around the tear. place the patch you've mad over the tear, centering the patch over it. Wait approximately 30 minutes, then again using the brush, place a thin even layer of silicone over the patch, overlapping the edge of the patch a 1/16" or so. Allow the patched slides to dry overnight for complete adhesion, then reassemble and check carb adjustment. As I said, I made this repair a little more than a year ago, and yesterday, I pulled the slide covers and using a strong magnifying glass (old eyes ya know) I found NO further deterioration of the diaphragms or the patches I made. And on the mercury gauge, the carbs are rock solid, with NO fluctuation. I've also since done this same repair to 2 Harleys, a Suzuki Cavalcade, and a Kaw Vulcan, all with the same reliable results. 18. These Marauder's are warm blooded animals...they don't like the cold even after jetting. You have to warm them up or drive with the choke on a few miles. Don't forget to turn the choke off or it will load up the plugs. Every Suzuki I've had was that way. 19. Carb tips wrote by AutoGeek I had this problem when I first got my Rauder, front mixture screw had no effect on the idle. First time I cleaned the carbs I still had the problem even though the bike ran much better, (It barely ran at all when I got it.) I ran it by the Dealer and the tech said it sounded to him like the front carb was not firing correctly. I took the front carb off again and this time I removed the mixture screw and when cleaning the circuits I used a air compressor. after shooting air through the idle mixture screw and trying to figure out where in the carb it came out, I found a thick brown crud splashed inside the carb, I can only guess that it came from that circuit. I made sure the pathways were clear and free flowing. Started the bike and the front mixture screw worked again and was able to get it adjusted it for a nice Idle. Peeps say that the mixture screw only has to do with the idle. My experience is that when I adjust the screws at different positions it effects alot of the performance overall. Tips: Carb cleaning If you make up your mine to clean your carbs then get serious and methodical about it. Read the maintenance manual and know which pathways or circuits are air and which ones are for Gas. Remove all rubber parts from the carb before you use carb cleaner. Don't shoot air in holes that you don't know where they come out at, you could damage the a seal or boot. Get a caliper and check float hight while you have the carb apart. I can not stress how important proper float hight is in the correct running of the carb. On the front carb there is a removable panel that is for the coasting valve, inside the lid you will see 2 compartments molded into the lid. between these 2 compartments is a hole so small its literally a pinhole. Chk this!!!! mine was blocked. You can shoot carb cleaner down air pathways to clean them but don't just leave the carb cleaner in the airway, blow it out and dry it with compressed air or a can of compressed air from a retail store. Ask! questions on this forum if you need any help members here give fast response's and sound advise and its free. If your carbs are still factory, I would order SpacerJims carb screw replacement kit. I swear those factory screws are made out of butter. 20. You can run the Marauder fuel pump to test it by: turn the key on in neutral clutch out press the starter button and hold it Also a good way to prime the front carb after sitting a couple days.