Stage 2 Jet Kit Installation procedure

Parts and tools recommended before you start.
Tools:
	High quality #2 phillips magnetic screwdriver
	Flat blade screwdriver
	Metric allen wrench set
	Metric socket wrench set
	1/4 inch very sharp chisel
        Needle Nose Vicegrips
        Impact screwdriver
Parts:
	Jet Kit
	2 K&N Air filters
	SS screw kit
	

I started by removing the seat, all 4 side covers and the gas tank.
I did the work in basically 2 parts; rear carb/air box and the front carb/air box.
I pulled both carbs out and worked with them on a table set next to the bike.

Rear carb/air box:
1. Removed the manual tray and removed battery clamps and battery from bike.
2. Removed fastening screws on rear air box. One on top and one on the left side.
3. Loosened carb intake and air box clamps.
4. Removed the engine breather tube from the top of the back cylinder to allow the 
   air box to be moved back.
5. Removed gas line from fuel pump to rear carb to allow the carb to move freely. 
   Be careful as gas will leak from this line.
6. Once the air box was moved back into the area where the battery was, then the 
   carb was removed from the rear cylinder intake.
7. Removed the top cover and proceeded to remove and install the needles as with 
   the front carb. Had to use the chisel to loosen one of the top cover screws. 
   Unfortunately I ran into a problem stripping out one of the jet needle stopper 
   plate screws. I had to use the 1/4 inch chisel to hammer a slot into the top of 
   the screw to be able to get it loose and remove it. I had to be very careful doing 
   this as not to damage the needle slide. 
8. Drilled out the orifice and replaced the jet needle stopper plate with 2 new 
   allen head screws. Make sure the plate doesn't block the vacuum hole and the
   tit on the plate is down.
   Mark the plate on the side that doesn't have the tit so you can install it correctly.
   The hole to drill is the offset hole in the bottom of the slide. 
   NOT THE HOLE THE NEEDLE IS IN.
9. Replaced the needle slide, diaphram and spring. Make sure the diaphram is positioned
   correctly.
10. Replaced the top cover and fastened with 4 - 4mm x 12mm allen head screws.
11. Loosened carb drain screw and tilt carb to drain gas into small plastic cup.
12. Removed the float bowl.
13. Removed the 100 main jet and replaced with YOUR main jet.
14. Replaced float bowl and fastened with new allen head screws.
15. Replaced air box and worked carb back onto intake and airbox clamps.
16. Tightened all clamps holding carb and replaced airbox fastening screws.
17. Removed stock air filter and install the K&N air filter.
18. Drilled out brass plug to expose idle air mixture screw.
    Info and pictures here: http://www.spacerjim.com/faqs.htm
19. Adjusted idle air mixture screw. Turn the screw in until it lightly seats then 
    back off 2 1/2 turns.
Rear carb/air box done.

Front carb/air box: 
1. Removed the screws holding the air box and the cable connector from the air box 
   and loosened the clamps holding the carb to the intake and air box.
2. Removed the frame struts to allow the front carb to rotate. This can be done 
   without removing or adjusting any of the linkages or cables which you don't really 
   want to do unless you plan on syncronizing the carbs after.
3. Removed the front air box completely, removed the stock air filter and installed 
   the new K&N filter. 
   The screws that they give you with the K&N filters will work but are hard to get 
   started because they are just barely long enough. I decided to make it a bit easier 
   and bought the 5mm x 16mm allen screws to replace the 5mm x 12mm flat pan head 
   screws they supplied. The stock screws will not work because they are not long enough. 
   Do not use the restrictor supplied with  the K&N's.
4. Removed the top cover off the front carb being careful not to have the spring 
   jump out. Had trouble with 2 screws stripping on me and had to use the chisel to 
   remove them. Placing the chisel at an angle on the screws only took a tap with a 
   mallet on the end of the chisel to loosen them enough that I could use the phillips 
   screwdriver to do the rest. I had an impact driver also but it seemed to only strip 
   out the screw heads more so I resorted to the chisel.
5. Removed the needle slide with the diaphram and removed the screws holding the 
   jet needle stopper plate.
6. Drilled out the orifice on the needle slide with the supplied drill bit.
   Mark the plate on the side that doesn't have the tit so you can install it correctly.
   The hole to drill is the offset hole in the bottom of the slide. 
   NOT THE HOLE THE NEEDLE IS IN.
7. Installed the  needle with the "e" clip set on the 3rd position from the top
   and the original spacer and spring.
8. Replaced the jet needle stopper plate and replaced the needle slide with the 
   diaphram back into the carb. Make sure the plate doesn't block the vacuum hole and the
   tit on the plate is down. Make sure the diaphram is positioned correctly on the carb.
9. Used the allen head screws to replace the top cover.
10. Loosened the carb drain screw and tilted the carb to drain gas out of carb into 
    a small plastic cup.
11. Tilted the carb to access float bowl screws and removed float bowl to get at the main jet.
12. Removed 90 main jet and replaced with YOUR main jet.
13. Reinstall the float bowl with allen head screws.
14. Replaced air box and worked carb back onto intake and airbox clamps.
15. Tightened all clamps holding carb and reinstall the airbox fastening screws.
16. Drilled out brass plug to expose idle air mixture screw.
    Info and pictures here: http://www.spacerjim.com/faqs.htm
17. Adjusted idle air mixture screw. Turned the screw in untill it lightly seats then 
    back off 2 1/2 turns.

Front carb/air box done.
18. Replaced battery and battery terminals and manual tray.


Rotated the throttle to be sure that all the linkages and cable are working without 
any binding or problems.
Replaced engine breather tube to top to rear cylinder.
Replaced frame struts, front and rear side covers, replaced gas tank and connect gas lines.

Turn the gas on, turn the key on and fire it up.
It takes about a half a minute or so for gas to get back into the carbs.
Let it warm up to running temp and adjusted the idle air mixture screws. 
If you leave the gas pet cock loose and raise the gas tank up with a 3 1/2 inch piece 
of wood, you can access the front carb mixture screw fairly easily.
Info and pictures here: http://www.spacerjim.com/faqs.htm